Author |
Message |
Registered: March 13, 2007 | Posts: 360 |
| Posted: | | | | Can someone tell me what aspect ratio that would be the best to setup an INFOCUS IN72 front projector. I have been trying all the aspect ratios. The one I choose determines the placement of the projector distance from the screen.
native 16 x 9 / does not fill the screen border all around picture
16 x 9 / does fill the screen and keeps films in original aspect ratio with bars top and bottom depending on aspect ratio
4 x 3 / leaves black bars on sides
letterbox / stretches dvd to fill screen
natural wide / stretches 4 x 3 to 16 x 9 also cuts off dvd menus
This is all confusing. Lookng for input.
Thanks |
|
Registered: September 7, 2007 | Posts: 265 |
| Posted: | | | | Don't stretch the picture! From what you desribed, stick with the normal 16x9 setting. That should give you the most accurate image.
/edit/
From what I just read, this is not a HD projector, correct? If that is the case the native setting would be ideal for overall picture quality. However, if the normal 16x9 setting is ok with you from a quality standpoint that would be the next best option. | | | Last edited: by twojayz |
|
Registered: March 13, 2007 | Posts: 360 |
| Posted: | | | | That was my thought as well. My choices are 16 x 9 fills the screen or native which will not unless I move the projector further back than the other setting. Was wondering the advantage or difference between the two. I am watching it now on 16 x 9 and the image fills the screen from 10 feet to the screen, but if i put it in native the image is now in the middle of the screen with the border on all four sides. |
|
Registered: March 13, 2007 | Posts: 360 |
| Posted: | | | | Here are the specs on the projector
InFocus IN72 Specs
Video: Component and RGB HDTV (720p, 1035i, 1080i, 1080p-24Hz), 24p. DVI/HDMI with HDCP for digital video and encrypted digital video. Component EDTV (480p, 576p progressive scan), Component, Composite and S-Video standard video (480i, 576i, 576i RGB SCART with adapter, NTSC, NTSC M 4.43, PAL: B, G, H, I, M, N; SECAM: M). Computer: Digital and analog PC, Macintosh, up to 1024x768 resolution through intelligent resizing (Separately available M1-A cable for analog sources or M1-D cable for digital sources required.) Communication: USB (with separately available M1-A or M1-D cable) Inputs and Outputs
1 - Component (RCA): HDTV, EDTV (progressive), and Standard TV component video (interlaced) 1 - S-Video: Standard TV Video 1 - Composite (RCA): Standard TV Video 1 - DVI: HDTV RGB, HDTV Component, Digital Visual Interface (DVI) with HDCP decryption, computer, and USB, HDMI via available adapter 1 - HDMI: SDTV, EDTV, HDTV Component (4:4:4 or 4:2:2) and RGB digital video, Interface (HDMI) with HDCP decryption 1 - 3.5mm Mini-Jack: 12v screen drop trigger SCART RGBS: RGBS through component and composite video connectors with separately available adapter Display
Imaging Technology: Texas Instruments DLP DarkChip2 480p 12° DMD Resolution: 854 x 480 (16:9 widescreen) Projection Lens: Fully recessed 12 element zoom lens, all glass, F/2.4-2.6, 21-25mm focal length (1.2:1 zoom ratio) with rack and pinion focus and zoom control Color Wheel: Proprietary, 6-segment color wheel (6500K color temperature), D65 color calibration Calibrated Contrast Ratio: 2000:1 full on/full off, typical Lamp (dual mode): 160/200 Watt SHP, 3000 hours average lifetime Video Optimized Lumens: 900 ANSI max Projection Modes: Front/rear/ceiling mode Focusing Distance: 5' (1.5m) to 8 Keystone Correction: Digital, up to +/- 20° vertical SMPTE Brightness: Up to 11.5' (3.5m) wide on a 1.0 gain screen Throw Ratio: 1.76:1 - 2.12:1 (distance/width) Video Processing: Pixelworks DNX 10 bit video decoder, advanced motion adaptive deinterlacing for Standard and High Definition sources (including 1080i) 2D comb filter |
|
Registered: March 13, 2007 | Posts: 360 |
| Posted: | | | | Quoting twojayz: Quote:
From what I just read, this is not a HD projector, correct? If that is the case the native setting would be ideal for overall picture quality. However, if the normal 16x9 setting is ok with you from a quality standpoint that would be the next best option. Since they are both 16 x 9 settings, what is the difference between the two |
|
Registered: September 7, 2007 | Posts: 265 |
| Posted: | | | | In the native mode the picture will not be stretched which would give you the best overall quality, but as you know you'll get the smaller image.
If you choose the normal 16x9 it will stretch the image proportionally on all four sides which shouldn't cause any noticeable distortion to the image itself, people won't look too wide for instance. What will happen though is that the image will lose some overall quality and won't be as sharp and crisp. If that's not an issue then use this setting.
If worse comes to worse you can always switch to the native 16x9. From a technical standpoint the native setting is best, but practically speaking, you obviously want the biggest picture you can get otherwise you wouldn't have the projector. Like I said, unless you find that the quality suffers greatly, the 16x9 mode should be fine. |
|
Registered: March 13, 2007 | Posts: 360 |
| Posted: | | | | The picture output on this machine is simply amazing. The color is bright and the detail is unbeleivable. I find it better than going to the movies. I do notice that the picture is slightly not as sharp in the 16 x 9 mode and it is clearer in native. I will position the projector to fill the screen in native mode.
The screen size is 106 inches and the projector will have to be set further back to fill the entire screen.
I take it twojayz you have a projector as well.
Thanks for explaining the difference. |
|
Registered: May 19, 2007 | Reputation: ![Highest Rating](/images/Ratings/Small/4.png) | Posts: 5,917 |
| Posted: | | | | That's the same size screen I plan on getting. Let me know how far back you had to go! |
|
Registered: March 13, 2007 | Posts: 360 |
| Posted: | | | | Quoting Dr. Killpatient: Quote: That's the same size screen I plan on getting. Let me know how far back you had to go! The projector is ceiling mounted and is 14 feet back. The room is 20' long and 14 feet wide. |
|
Registered: September 7, 2007 | Posts: 265 |
| Posted: | | | | Hey Bill, glad I could help. No, I don't have a projector (yet) but I do plan on getting one.
I'm involved in the industry and even though I don't typically deal with projectors the concept is the same. One thing I'd throw at you is this: Even if you just use a THX certified DVD, try doing at least a basic calibration on your system. You'll see a positive improvement, although it may take a little while to get used to it. That seems to be the case with a lot of people. If you can spare $20 for an AVIA or Video Essentials disc, or even the Monster calibration disc, it would be a bit better yet. Same goes for your audio system. Once you get it even close you'll hear a tremendous difference...
Regardless, enjoy! |
|
Registered: March 13, 2007 | Posts: 360 |
| Posted: | | | | My sound system consist of a technics 5.1 surround sound receiver at 100 watts per channel. Left and Right speakers are Cerwin Vega 15" Floor Speakers with a Cerwin Vega Center Channel. The rear speakers are 8" Pioneer Bookshelf speakers. The DVD player is an upscaling Panasonic. I am contemplating a sub woofer but am not sure if it will be overkill as the front speakers have a tremendous amount of low end rumble. They will shake the whole house. I will look into a calibration disc for the sound. I hear that the projector should be calibrated as well although I don't see going through the menus what you could actually tweak. Any input is greatly appreciated and welcomed.
Thanks |
|
Registered: September 7, 2007 | Posts: 265 |
| Posted: | | | | Get at least one subwoofer. If you can get two or more (identical) subs that would be ideal. It will help to round out the overall bass response throughout the entire room.
If you do add a sub, or multiples, go into the speaker settings on your receiver and select "small" for the main five (L/C/R/SR/SL). This will force all LFE (low frequency effects) information to get channeled through the sub(s). It will also help reduce the strain on the receiver which would help you to get better overall audio performance from all of your equiipment.
The projector should have even the most basic of options to play around with. These would include (names may actually be different for your projector) Color, Tint, Contrast and Picture...Much like the audio, proper adjustment of these settings can help your equipment run better and last longer. |
|
Registered: March 13, 2007 | Posts: 360 |
| Posted: | | | | I was thinking adding the sub to the rear of the room to equal out the bass and leaving the front speakers on full. I thought it would be a better setup. But again this is all new to me. How do you run more than one subwoofer and where would be the ideal placement in a 14 x 20 room?
EDIT
What would you recommend for a sub woofer? | | | Last edited: by Bill MacNeill |
|
Registered: September 7, 2007 | Posts: 265 |
| Posted: | | | | I'm not really positive off hand what would subs would be the best match with the rest of your system. I can look into it if you'd like. Running the subs wouldn't be a problem. You connect one to your receiver (like normal) and then daisy-chain each additional unit. Your room dimensions are pretty good for a home theater so just two subs might be good for you. Obviously, not being in your house I can't say that with any amount of certainty though. Chances are really good you wouldn't need four, although it's still ideal.
Placement is another issue that often confuses people. Just about everyone wants to place a sub in the corner, which is more than likely the worst place you can actually put it. If you're going to run two, put one just off-center to the middle of the wall, where the screen is leaving around 8-12 inches between it and the wall. Then, for the second one, simply place it straight back on the opposing wall. IF you would use four then you COULD put one in each corner. However the best placement is still going to be just off-center of the wall it is placed at.
FYI, any of the calibration discs I mentioned earlier will include audio and video tools to help you along and with the process. As you're new to all of this, they also have relatively easy to understand instructions for each test and/or adjustment procedure. |
|
Registered: March 13, 2007 | Posts: 360 |
| Posted: | | | | If you could steer me in the right direction that would be cool. I am not sure as to what size sub to get. I was always under the impression bigger is better. There is a calibration disc on Ebay that I am watching. It ends in a few days and very close to my home. I could pick it up. The projector does have color tint and contrast and brightness adjustments. They are all at the factory settings. |
|
Registered: September 7, 2007 | Posts: 265 |
| Posted: | | | | I"d be happy to look into it for you. Give me the model numbers, if you have them available, for your receiver and alll of your current speakers. That would help tremendously in narrowing your options down. I don't know how new your gear is but your best option would be to stick with at the very least the same manufacturer for all our speakers (subs included) and preferably in the same line of product. If it's relatively new it shouldn't be hard to match it up together.
A general rule of thumb on sizing is going to be more relative to power than actual speaker size. For the best performance using roughly twice the channel wattage is ideal. So, two 12 inch 200-250 watt subs would be a great starting point for what I know of your system. You could use a couple 150 watt units as well if your budget can't accomodate the higher cost of the larger units. You'll want to make sure that the subs are identical as well.
I'll look forward to your response and I'll go from there. |
|